Proto SCS Installation

Proto SCS Installation

Installing an SCS clamp system isn't as scary as it seems.

Installing a Standard Compression System (SCS) clamp can be tricky if no one has shown you how to do it right. Even after you get your SCS installed, it can be challenging to get it locked down just right. When dealing with an SCS, the first and most important precaution you should keep in mind is to not let anyone that you don't trust mess with it. Often times, someone might be trying to help when they think they know what they are doing and they might accidentally wreck your $80 clamp. I don't let anyone else work on my kid's scooters not because I don't trust them, but because if I screw it up, then I have to pay for it. If someone else breaks a part, I don't want to deal with that awkward interaction of who has to pay for it.

Clamps, and SCS clamps especially, seem to be the biggest culprits of breakage when someone is trying to help you out. It takes a delicate touch to know how much pressure is too much pressure when dealing with steel bolts in aluminum threads. It also takes a bit of finesse to get the clamp tighened evenly without binding. Watch other people when working on their SCS and go slowly. Most problems occur when people try to rush the process.

As always, use T-handle allen key wrenches rather than L-shaped allen keys. You can buy a full set of T-handle metric allen keys for less than $10 at Harbor Freight and I highly recommend that you do so.

Safety Note

Be careful not to pinch your fingers in the clamp throughout the process listed below.

WARNING

The following instructions describe a potentially dangerous procedure and should not be performed by children or anyone not comfortable with tools. If you are a kid, have a parent do this for you. Improper use of tools could result in severe injury. Always follow tool instructions and wear safety equipment.

Please read all of these instructions and watch the video before attempting this technique.

What You Need

In order to install your SCS clamp using this method, you'll need a few things:

  1. Bars WITHOUT a slit and cut to the proper height. Remember that an SCS clamp adds about 2 inches of height, so you probably need to cut off an extra 2 inches from your bars. This will allow you to cut off an existing slit in your bars as well.
     
  2. Proto SCS, including 4 clamp bolts, 1 compression bolt, 1 compression cap (looks like a thick washer with a star shape in the middle), and a bar shim. While most SCS systems should work similar to this, I don't have experience with other systems to outline the subtle differences.
     
  3. Fork with startnut installed or a fork with threads built in, such as a Phoenix Phorx.
     
  4. Deck with threadless headset installed.
     
  5. Machine grease such as Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease.
     
  6. T-handle allen key wrenches of various size, such as these: http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-t-handle-metric-hex-key-set-37862.html
     
  7. [Optional for step 4-B below] Headset top cap.

How To

Here's how you can expand your clamp using the penny trick, also shown in the video below:

  1. Remove any bolts from your SCS clamp and expand the clamp slightly using the penny trick.
     
  2. Place the compression cap inside the top of your clamp so that it rests inside and on top of the ledge formed by the narrower opening at the bottom of the clamp. It should rest about half-way down the inside of the clamp.
     
  3. If you are using standard size bars (1-1/4 inch outer diameter), then install the bar shim into the top of your clamp. Make sure that the slit of the bar shim and the clamp are properly aligned together. If you are using oversized bars (1-3/8 inch outer diameter), then you can disregard the bar shim.
     
  4. Follow one of these steps, depending on your preference:
    1. Place the compression bolt through the center of the compression cap inside the SCS clamp.
       
    2. As shown in the video below, place the compression bolt through the center of your a headset top cap (this would have come with your threadless headset), then place this assembly inside your SCS clamp, feeding the bolt through the center of the compression cap.

      The reason why I chose to use the headset top cap in addition to the compression cap is because I've encountered issues with the compression cap bending under pressure from the compression bolt. While I'm not sure if it makes a difference, I feel better having the pressure of the compression bolt spread out over the compression cap via the headset top cap.

      This step doesn't affect the fit of your bars, although you may need to use a longer compression bolt if you are using a fork with a starnut that has been set fairly deep.
       
  5. Begin to thread the compression bolt into the threads on your fork (or starnut), but don't fully tighten this yet.
     
  6. Straighten your clamp in relation to your fork and then carefully tighten your compression bolt. You don't want to tighten this too much your your headset won't spin. Conversely, you don't want it too loose or your headset will be sloppy. Try to find a happy medium and remember that this is how you adjust your headset compression (tension) if you need to change it later.
     
  7. Drop your bars into the top of your clamp and roughly straighten them. If you haven't removed your penny yet, go ahead and do this now.
     
  8. Apply a small amount of machine grease to the threads of each of your clamp bolts and thread them into your clamp. Don't tighten them yet, just get them barely started into the clamp.

    This step is very important to help prevent your bolts from binding in your clamp. Since the bolts are steel and the clamp is much softer aluminum, your bolts can easily destroy the threads in your clamp. While you can purchase a kit from Inward Scooters to repair your clamp, it's much easier to just be careful and take care of your clamp. I've maintained 4 SCS clamps without stripping any of them by simply being careful. I didn't even learn the grease trick until just recently, but it makes a big difference so be sure to use a quality grease. Do not use something like Vaseline or chapstick or cheese whiz or a melted Snickers bar. Use a good quality machine grease.
     
  9. Check the alignment of your fork, clamp, and bars once again and begin to tighten each bolt a little at a time. DO NOT tighten one bolt all the way as it will cause your clamp to bind and prevent the other bolts from being tightened. Tighten a bolt a little bit, then move to the next one, and so on until you've tightened all 4 bolts a small amount, then start over and repeat. Keep doing this until you've worked all the bolts in evenly and tightened your clamp.

    It will take some time to learn how much pressure the aluminum clamp threads can take before they are damaged, so err on the side of not-tight-enough rather than over-tightening them. You can always go back and tighten the bolts more if your bars are slipping, but once you damage your clamp, you're out $80 for a new one.

    If you find that your clamp is slipping on the fork, do your final tightening on the bottom two bolts before the top two. If you find that your clamp is slipping on the bars, do your final tightening on the top two bolts before the bottom two. I don't mean "tighten the top two bolts all the way, then tighten the bottom two", but rather I mean that you should follow the process of tightening each bolt a little at a time as explained above, but then do the last quarter- to half-turn tightening on the top two or bottom two before the others.
     
  10. Check your alignment, compression, and clamp tightness. If you have to make an adjustment, follow the same procedure to loosen the bolts: each bolt a little at a time. If you experience binding, the bolts will seize and you might hear a pop or smell a hot metallic odor as the steel bolts are building up friction against the aluminum threads. This means that you have rushed one bolt before the others. Try to determine which bolt is out too far, turn it back in a little bit, and try to even out the bolts. The grease on your bolts should help ease some of the friction caused by binding.

Love It or Leave It

You might hear people bashing on the SCS clamp from time to time. The truth is, it's heavy and some people have a hard time getting it adjusted just right. While the criticism of the weight is accurate, it's affects are reduced do to the fact that its weight is near the center of rotational mass on your scooter. Criticisms related to problems with adjustments, however, are simply related to part incompatibility (such as the aluminum District bars I use in the video as an example of oversized bars) or a lack of understanding of how the SCS system works. After spending some time working with our SCS systems, I've been able to use them successfully on our scooters, although we have recently moved to HIC systems, which I'll cover in another article and video soon.

Good luck and have fun!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9gQks4_BQs&hd=1


Comments

can you use a proto scs on a sacrifice vader deck? (intergrated)

By ryan (not verified)

There's no reason I can think of why it wouldn't work. You might need a headset spacer, depending on what fork you use.

By Kenny

Can you install scs on a scooter that ran ics before? You'd just have to put a starnut in the forks and leave the hole in the forks at the bottom open I'm guessing?

By Tyler (not verified)

There are a few things you'd need to do to convert a scooter from ICS to SCS. First, you'd need to cut the slit of of your bars (shorten them by about 2 inches) and either remove the starnut or hammer it further up in to the bars. For the fork, if it's a capped fork like those made by District, you'll have to cut the cap off and then install a starnut from the top.

By Kenny

Hi I have a mgp she devil deck, a sacrifice shinobi clamp, classic threadless phoenix phorx, flavor integrated headset but when I put them together with the scs, my bars can shake back and forth in my clamp even though everything is very tight. What do you recommend?

By Matthew O'Farrell (not verified)

Are you running the Shinobi quad clamp or the Shinobi SCS? If you're running the quad clamp, that won't work. You need to have a compression system with a threadless setup. If you are running the SCS, are you using standard sized bars without the shim in the SCS? That would cause the problem you're describing. Also, if your bars have a slit cut in them, that's a problem. You either need to cut the slit off (making your bars shorter) or buy new bars. If you have all of that right, have you tried tightening the compression bolt? If you can't get it tight enough, you might need some headset spacers.

By Kenny

how do u tell if your scooter has scs ?

By mason (not verified)

If you're not sure, then it probably doesn't have SCS. An SCS clamp works with a threadless headset, threadless forks, and uses a compression cap inside the clamp. The top half of the clamp holds the bars and the bottom half holds the fork. Here's a video on SCS: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9gQks4_BQs

By Kenny

Hey there I got the phoenix session complete, and I want to add the proto SCS standard clamp problem is my fork is a bit small when I tighten the bolts I noticed the fork isn't completely up all the way only the last bolt is holding half the fork what should I do

By Zamo (not verified)

It sounds like you might be trying to put it on upsidedown. All SCS clamps should have the same diameter clamp side for the fork. The Proto SCS (fullsize, not baby) will accomodate standard bars or oversized bars, so it has a larger opening and comes with a shim for standard bars. If you have it flipped upsidedown without the shim, the oversized opening would never clamp on to a fork. Your Proto logo might even be printed upsidedown making you think that it goes the other way. It wouldn't be the first time I've seen an upsidedown printed Proto logo on an SCS. Also, remember that the Session complete already comes with a great SCS that is lighter than the Proto SCS. I wouldn't replace it if I were you.

By Kenny

Will helmeri sig st2 Steel bars fit with a district scs clamp and odi aluminum bar ends? Thanks almost for te help I really appreciate it.

By Tony Simon (not verified)

The ST2 bars are standard diameter and the District SCS looks like it will work with standard and oversized bars, so you should be good. Bar ends can be tricky, but you should be able to get them to work on steel bars. If they fall out, put a small rubber band around the part that inserts into the bar for extra grip.

By Kenny

im having some problems with my scs. it seems that no matter how much i tighten my compression bolt, the headset still becomes loose after a few minutes of riding. could this be a problem with the starnut?

By connor (not verified)

There are a few things to try. First, clean your compression bolt and the threads in your starnut with a solvent, like WD40, to disolve the grease. Also, check your compression cap inside the SCS to see if it's bent. If the compression cap is bent or if you need a headset spacer, that might cause the gap to be too small between the compression cap and the top of the fork.

By Kenny

Can a proto SCS fit on my 2014 lucky strata (HIC)?

By Justin (not verified)

Yes, you can, but your bars are oversized, so you'll need to get the full-size SCS (not the baby SCS) and use it without the shim, unless you want to get new standard-sized bars too. Also, you'll have to cut the slit off your bars, but that's usually okay because the SCS clamp raises your bars anyway.

By Kenny

Can I get away with not cutting the slit out of my bars because the slit is 4 inches long

By riley lambert (not verified)

For SCS, you can't have a slit in your bars. If you leave the slit in your bars, it won't ever clamp down tight enough. Also, 4 inches is way too long for a slit in your bars unless you're running a massive clamp.

By Kenny

I have recently bought an scs conversion kit ( from scooter hut), which includes new forks , clamp and bars (urban artt) and the forks have no threads (their "kompressor forks") but cannot install it. This might be an obvious question , but do I need a starnut, and if so, how do I get it in my forks? Thanks in advance :)

By James (not verified)

To use SCS, you must be using a fully threadless system: threadless forks, threadless headset, and the actual SCS compression, which also requires the use of a starnut or forks with a built-in starnut (internal threads). The process for installing a starnut can be challenging, but it is the same for scooters as it is for BMX bikes. I suggest looking up some videos on YouTube or taking your fork to a local bike or scooter shop. I've only installed a few starnuts, so I'm not the best expert on providing instructions for how to do it.

By Kenny

I have to stretch my tilt SCS to fit my apex Bol bars but they is still move I've heard that the paint is too thick and I have to raw that part is this true

By Bill (not verified)

No, you shouldn't have to raw any product to make it fit properly. If it won't fit with expanding the clamp, then you probably have a baby SCS and oversized bars, which are not compatibile with each other.

By Kenny

im getting a TILT legacy fork with TILT SCS. how to i tell if i need a spacer??? i you could reply that would be great.

By Noah (not verified)

If you mean an SCS spacer, Tilt makes both fullsize and baby SCS clamps, so it depends on what bars you're getting. The fork doesn't matter.

Baby SCS: no spacer, standard diameter bars only.

Fullsize SCS: spacer for standard diameter bars, no spacer for oversized or aluminum bars.

If you mean a headset spacer, that's all dependent upon your deck's headtube.

By Kenny

Lucky pry bars?

By jaren (not verified)

Yep, from several years ago. :)

By Kenny